Last week I ordered a panorama head (see this post) from Jasper Engineering, their Pano Head 3.
Because I am a novice at this, I can't offer any comparisons to other gear, but I must say I am very impressed with the build quality of this device. Precision machined and finished to professional standards. I like the large knurled knobs and way everything fits so tight. Precision is the word, so I don't mind repeating it. Now I just need to learn how to use it.
Did the first crude — and I do mean crude — test this afternoon. Out my kitchen window to the shipyard across the street. Correct that — through my kitchen window to the shipyard across the street. I was so anxious for a test I didn't bother to open the window. Yikes.
Here was my strategy on this first test based on a fairly simplistic thought process:
- Mount the camera in portrait orientation.
- Level the pano head using the bubble level on the end of the main arm.
- Use my zoom lens at 45mm (a 90mm equivalent) with a very approximate nodal point. No use fussing too much on this first test.
- Set the camera to manual to make all exposures exactly the same.
- Focus the camera and then lock it so it wouldn't refocus with every shot.
- The detents in the base plate of this pano head are every 15°, but I wanted more overlap than that. I shot images at roughly half-way between each detent and on the detents. This gave me 11 overlapping shots over a bit less than a 90° swing.
This next part may seem a bit convoluted to you experienced experts, but it made sense to me. I loaded the 11 images into Lightroom and did a few basic things there. I tweaked one of the key images as I would if it were a stand-alone photograph — black point, clarity, brightness, sharpening, noise reduction, white balance, etc. — and then synced the rest of the images so they all had exactly the same treatment. I then exported all 11 images using these common Lightroom adjustments to individual image files. These I then popped into Photoshop's automated Photomerge function using the "Perspective" option. As the final step, I cropped out the excess "wings" and did a very quick job of spotting out the power line running through the image that runs in front of our building.
The strategy worked like a charm. It stitched together perfectly and looks great — at least to my novice eye. Printing at 360 ppi it would make an 11" x 52" image. So much for the first test.
Here is the resulting 78 megapixel image . . .
And a downloadable full size JPEG (10megabyte file) just in case you want to take a look in full res.
Conclusions: This is fun! This is easy!
Now comes the hard part — making something meaningful and of art quality.